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A Thanksgiving Pep Talk
  + stars: | 2023-11-23 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Here’s what to know: Every little thing is going to be all right. You’re going to serve the best meal that you can under the circumstances, and it’s going to be delicious and well received. You are not going to change anyone’s mind or behavior today, and that’s all right, too. And I bet it’s a fantastic day. (Here’s a collection of The Times’s best Thanksgiving cocktail recipes.)
Persons: Uncle Bertie, we’ve
For those of us who take Thanksgiving seriously, who plan and plan and cook and cook, this last Sunday before the feast marks the real start of the holiday. I’m short two dozen chairs!) That’s OK. Everything will turn out just fine. I trust the process. So I’ll spend a few hours working my plan and then turn to a simple dinner of chicken thighs cooked under a brick with a cheesy Hasselback potato gratin (above) on the side, a dress rehearsal for a new drop on Thursday.
Persons: I’ll
Chaat Party Has Entered the Party Chat
  + stars: | 2023-11-05 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Good morning. This took a lot of gas, a lot of time and a toll on our bodies. So we laughed hard when the only good fishing we had came at the very end of the day, a few boat lengths from the marina, across from Four Sparrow Marsh near Mill Basin, Brooklyn. For dinner that night, and for you this evening: a chaat party, essentially a no-recipe recipe that Priya Krishna adapted from one in the 2020 cookbook “Chaat,” by Maneet Chauhan and Jody Eddy. It also served as a kind of rehearsal for the celebration of Diwali, the Hindu celebration of lights, on Nov. 12.
Persons: Sandy Hook, Priya Krishna, Maneet Chauhan, Jody Eddy, Naz Deravian’s, gulab jamun, Christina Morales’s Organizations: Midland, Cabanas, New York Times Locations: Lower, Midland Beach, Staten, New Jersey, Queens, Jamaica, Mill Basin , Brooklyn
These are not easy days we’re marking. The news is relentless and largely grim, and it’s sometimes difficult to imagine a way forward, toward happiness and grace. You’re not alone, if that’s your state of mind. It’s a focaccia to make things just a little bit better. And sometimes that’s enough.
Persons: You’re, Genevieve Ko’s Locations: It’s
Just Like Mom Used to Make
  + stars: | 2023-09-24 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
The paprika made me think of the terrific food writer Arthur Schwartz, who was once the restaurant critic for The Daily News and later became known as the Food Maven. Arthur and I got to talking about the spice when I interviewed him for a story about chicken paprikash. I’d asserted that most paprika languishes in spice drawers, and is stale and flavorless as a result. To make a proper paprikash or goulash, I said, the smart move is to purchase some new paprika, bright and flavorful. Lidey’s recipe delivers!
Persons: Lidey Heuck, Arthur Schwartz, Maven, Arthur, I’d, Organizations: The Daily News
Jollof rice is a West African dish made with rice, tomatoes, onions, lots of peppers and lots of spice. Each one is the best and only jollof rice. An example: A few years ago, around Christmas, my colleague Helene Cooper prepared jollof rice for the Washington bureau of The New York Times. She posted a picture of her dish on the social media site then known as Twitter, calling it “the real and righteous Liberian jollof rice. West African pretenders with your rival nonsense, sit down.”Helene’s jollof rice won raves in the District that evening, but today I want to turn your attention to Yewande Komolafe’s jollof rice (above).
Persons: Helene Cooper, Helene, , Yewande Organizations: The New York Times, Twitter, Liberian Locations: West African, Senegal, Cameroon, Sierra Leone, Washington, Liberia, West, District, Nigeria
I’ll be plotting meals, proofing sourdough, sleuthing for blackberries at the back of beyond. My colleagues will cover for me while I’m gone, offering you many delicious things to cook and eat. I’ll see you in September. My dinner tonight could be yours as well, though: grilled corn on the cob (above), slathered with butter and served alongside a platter of hot dogs prepared in the American way, which is to say in a lot of different ways, as J.J. Goode reported for The New York Times. You can’t go wrong with corn and hot dogs, ever.
Persons: I’m, Goode Organizations: blackberries, The New York Times
There’s no substitute for dessert at The Lemon Ice King of Corona afterward, I’m afraid. Another dish I’d like to make this weekend: Ali Slagle’s Old Bay grilled shrimp. Ali adds a little bit of baking soda to the seasoning, which helps keep the shrimp snappy while they cook, and then tops everything with lemon zest, parsley and garlic. I think that’d be a fine Sunday lunch, in advance of a nap in front of a fan. There are many thousands more recipes to cook this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking.
Persons: Corona, I’m, Ali, I’ve Organizations: Bassmaster, New York Times Locations: Plattsburgh, Lake Champlain
One of my favorite meals at La Caridad 78 on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, before it closed in 2020, was pork egg foo young, alongside yellow rice, black beans and a platter of maduros. Once, afterward, I paused on my way back to the newsroom to sit on a park bench. Kay Chun has a terrific new recipe for egg foo young (above) that I’ll dress up with roast pork from the takeout shop and serve with rice augmented with Sazón seasoning, along with Cuban black beans and these lovely fried sweet plantains. This meal approximates my old lunchtime joy with no need to sleep in public. I just clean up the kitchen and pitch into bed.
Persons: Michael, Kay Chun Organizations: La Locations: Manhattan
A Lush, Buttery, Perfect Peach Crisp
  + stars: | 2023-08-06 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Games that my family plays on road trips: Punch Buggy, Stump the Teacher, I’m Thinking of an Animal. Also, the Rating Game: your top five sandwiches, your top five pizzerias, your top five restaurant dishes, your top five fruits. Peaches do very well in the Rating Game, I’ve found, even if your chances of actually eating a perfect peach are low. But cooking a bad peach can make it terrific, which is why I’m so thrilled about Yossy Arefi’s new recipe for a peach crisp (above). Peel them if you like a luscious texture against the buttery crust of oats (I’m a rustic; I don’t peel).
Persons: I’ve
Recipes That Meet You Where You Are
  + stars: | 2023-08-04 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
I came down with Covid for the second time last week, and it left me shivering, sweating, panting a little, unable to sleep, unable to get out of bed. I drank a lot of Gatorade and swallowed my dose of Paxlovid in the mornings and at night. I ate little. High on the list: Bryan Washington’s new recipe for chilaquiles verdes (above), which he wrote about for The New York Times Magazine. “Like so much of cooking’s calculus,” he said, “chilaquiles are as much about feel as about measurements and instructions.”
Persons: Covid, spacey, Bryan Washington’s, , Organizations: Gatorade, chilaquiles verdes, The New York Times Magazine
A New Recipe for a Very Old Hummus
  + stars: | 2023-07-30 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: 1 min
There’s some very nice writing about recipes in The New York Times Magazine this week, not surprisingly under the byline of Ligaya Mishan. Her subject is a hummus recipe (above), dating back to 13th century Syria, that Lucien Zayan of the Invisible Dog Art Center in Brooklyn served at a dinner series he runs, la Salle A Manger. We don’t have a lot of recipes that are so old. In fact, Ligaya reports, there is no documentation of hummus recipes after the 14th century until the late 19th century. But hummus endured, as Ligaya explained beautifully: “A recipe existed only in the doing, the way that the ‘Odyssey’ once existed only in the telling, made new each time, revised, embellished, its glory subject to the seemingly boundless human capacity for error and its counterpart, invention.”Featured RecipeView Recipe →
Persons: Ligaya Mishan, Lucien Zayan, hummus, Ligaya Organizations: New York Times Magazine, Art Center, la Locations: Syria, Brooklyn
There may be no better summer sandwich than a tomato one, on white bread smeared wall-to-wall with mayonnaise and sprinkled lightly with flaky salt and a little cracked black pepper. But as he so often does when he’s cooking, Eric Kim recently came up with a few tweaks that take things to new heights. For his sandwich (above), in addition to lightly toasting the bread (that’s a yikes for some), Eric adds to his salt and pepper a sprinkle of furikake, the savory-sweet Japanese spice blend and rice seasoning. The seaweed in the mixture, he wrote for The New York Times Magazine, “amps up the tomato’s savoriness, intensifying the harmony of fruit, carb and condiment.”Excellent! (Will I go further off-piste and add a sautéed soft-shell crab to each of the sandwiches?
Persons: Eric Kim, Eric, Will Organizations: The New York Times Magazine Locations: furikake
I want to grill and grill and grill some more, eat outside and devour tomatoes and corn. Thread the knuckles of meat onto skewers, then grill them over a fairly hot grill; serve with seeded Italian semolina bread, hot sauce and a white sauce of mayonnaise, sour cream, minced garlic and a splash of red wine vinegar. Alternatively, you might try Yewande Komolafe’s new recipe for grilled steak with sauce rof (above), a Senegalese condiment made of minced onion, parsley, scallions and chile. I’d go with skirt or hanger steak there, and maybe one extra jalapeño for pop. Or try Melissa Clark’s gingery grilled chicken thighs with charred peaches?
Persons: Summers, Melissa Clark’s, Ali Slagle Locations: New York, Binghamton, Senegalese
A Fruit Salad That Isn’t Sad
  + stars: | 2023-07-16 | by ( Sam Sifton | More About Sam Sifton | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: 1 min
Use Ali Slagle’s ace new recipe (above) to start your explorations. She massages lime zest into a little sugar so that the oils release, then mixes it into the fruit with lime juice, tweaking the ratio of juice to sugar until the result is electric. You could add some chopped mint, some red pepper flakes. …MondayI like Hetty McKinnon’s cold noodle salad with spicy peanut sauce for its weeknight versatility. Mix those into soba noodles and drizzle the amazing sauce over the top, making the dish umami-rich and fiery.
Persons: Ali, Hetty
Make any recipe more than three or four times and you’re going to change it, either for reasons of taste or expediency, occasionally both. Make that recipe six or seven times and it’s altered forever. That’s where I am with Eric Kim’s recipe for gochujang buttered noodles (above). Make Eric’s dish as he intended, or take it in whatever direction your pantry allows and your taste desires. It’s just butter, garlic, spice, sweetness, umami and starch.
Persons: Eric Kim’s, cheong, Cook Organizations: ssamjang Locations: spiciness
Now, be honest: How many of them were you proud of — perfect little pouches of fudgy yolk and silken, just-set white? Is this hollandaise going to be as cloudlike and perfect as it was the time before last? We need hacks, tips, advice, techniques that deliver consistent success. In the course of her work, Julia secured the family’s recipe for cacio e pepe (above). Cacio e pepe is a fantastic dish, but it can be a scary one, too: the sauce too clumpy, or not emulsified enough.
Persons: you’ve, you’ll, you’re, howdy, Julia Moskin, Julia, e pepe, Cacio, pepe Locations: Roscioli, Rome, SoHo, Manhattan
There are many thousands more recipes to cook this weekend awaiting you on New York Times Cooking. You may not be surprised to learn that you need a subscription to read them. Here’s Jenkins: “At the ages of 68 and 66, respectively, Evert and Navratilova have found themselves more intertwined than ever, by an unwelcome factor. ‘It was like, are you kidding me?’ Evert says.”My colleague Elisabeth Egan recently looked back at “Bridget Jones’s Diary” after 25 years. I liked Marian Bull on Rebecca May Johnson’s “Small Fires: An Epic in the Kitchen,” for n+1.
Persons: you’re, you’ve, Sally Jenkins, Chris Evert, Martina Navratilova, Here’s Jenkins, , Evert, Navratilova, ’ Evert, , Elisabeth Egan, “ Bridget Jones’s, “ Bridget Jones, Marian Bull, Rebecca May Johnson’s, ” Bull Organizations: New York Times, The Washington Post Locations: The,
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